Protein is a popular ingredient in the haircare market, often featured in products designed to strengthen and repair damaged hair. However, there’s growing concern among hair experts and influencers on social media about “protein overload,” where too much protein may cause more harm than good, leaving hair brittle and damaged.
On platforms like TikTok, the debate has intensified. Some experts warn that an excess of protein can create a hard coating on hair, making it more brittle. “The more protein buildup on the hair shaft, the more fragile the hair becomes,” said stylist Zach Mesquit in a video. “These products are marketed as solutions, but they may be making your hair worse.”
Others, however, believe protein overload is a myth. TikToker Sareena Akarim argues, “Most proteins don’t penetrate deeply into the hair. The real issue is the product’s formula, which might lack proper conditioning agents.”
So, what’s the truth behind this? Here’s what experts say.
Protein in Hair Treatments
Protein-based treatments like shampoos, conditioners, and masks are common in haircare routines aimed at repairing damage. One common protein used is keratin, alongside collagen and amino acids. The idea behind these treatments is simple: since hair is made of protein, adding more could help fix brittle strands.
“Protein helps strengthen hair by filling in gaps in the hair shaft and protecting the cuticle,” explained Dr. Anna Chacon, a dermatologist. This can lead to smoother, shinier hair, adding volume and improving its health.
Protein acts as a “scaffold” for the hair, said Dr. Ross Kopelman, a hair restoration surgeon. Without enough protein, hair can become weak and limp. However, there’s little clinical research on the subject, although limpness and flatness are often linked to low protein in hair.
Can You Overdo It on Protein Treatments?
While protein treatments are intended to help damaged hair, experts agree that too much protein can cause problems. According to stylist Rodger Azadganian, “Excess protein can make hair stiff, dry, and brittle, causing it to lose flexibility and leading to breakage.”
The issue, experts say, lies in the lack of moisture. Adding protein without balancing it with hydration can leave hair feeling stiff, almost like straw. This is especially true for those with low-porosity hair, which struggles to absorb moisture.
“Protein treatments can give hair strength, but without moisture, they make hair more prone to snapping,” said Dr. Kopelman. Many hair products focus on protein as the solution, leading people to overuse them.
Are All Hair Issues Due to Protein Overload?
Some argue that what’s called “protein overload” may actually be a result of other haircare issues, such as product buildup. These treatments, which are quickly rinsed out, are unlikely to cause lasting damage, they claim.
Azadganian believes both sides have valid points. “Some people overdo it with protein treatments, while others confuse dry, damaged hair with protein overload, when all they need is a deep conditioner.”
It’s important to remember that other factors, such as hormonal changes or nutrient deficiencies, could be contributing to hair issues. Relying solely on protein treatments might prevent people from addressing these underlying causes.
Choosing the Right Hair Products
Selecting the right haircare products can be tricky, with so many options on the market. The best approach is to consult a stylist, who can recommend products tailored to your hair type and needs.
If you choose protein-based treatments, it’s important to balance them with moisturizing products. Dr. Kopelman suggests alternating between protein-rich products and deep-conditioning treatments or finding one that includes both.
A good repairing conditioner should contain proteins along with moisture-locking ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or natural oils such as argan, jojoba, or shea butter. If your hair feels stiff or breaks easily without stretching, it may be time to focus more on hydration.
When choosing hair products, pay attention to the ingredients. Avoid products with harsh chemicals, like parabens and sulfates, which can further damage hair.
If you’re experiencing chronic hair breakage or thinning, it’s worth consulting a medical professional. “Underlying issues like scalp conditions or nutritional deficiencies may need to be addressed for long-term hair health,” said Dr. Kopelman.
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